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![]() = Now, the front LED of the T818 react based on the TELEMETRY DATA provided by games (limited to FLAG + RPM + PIT). * Fixed few issues in the THRUSTMASTER CONTROL PANEL This change is visible using the TX / T300 / TS-PC / TS-XW / T-GT / T-GT II bases on PC. This change is only visual in the Control Panel and no incidence in games. * To improve compatibility of CPL with steering wheel, the Formula Wheel Add-On Ferrari SF1000 Edition + the Ferrari 488 GT3 Wheel Add-On + the other future wheels are now shown as a GENERIC ROUND WHEEL in the CONTROL PANEL. – T150 (on PC, the USB sliding switch on the T150 racing wheel base must always be set to the PS3 position!)Ĭhanges made in new driver version : – T300 (on PC, the USB sliding switch on the T300 racing wheel base must always be set to the PC-PS3 position!) – T-GT (on PC, the USB sliding switch on the T-GT racing wheel base must always be set to the OTHER position!) This driver package is compatible with these racing wheels: You can grab the download via Thrustmaster Support. While the firmware simply lists “Force Feedback improvement”, the driver contains many more changes that include fixes for freezing and more. But then it took an hour and a half of pointlessly running laps so i could unlock the parts that i could’ve just instantly bought with credits in past games.Thrustmaster released an update for their steering wheels that most notably does take care of a few issues with Codemasters F1 23. I drove the car for 5 minutes and had a pretty good idea of the changes i needed to make to get the car feeling how i wanted. This is just another shining example of why the carPG system is so frustrating. Wider, stickier tires, max downforce, softening up the rear suspension, and lowering the on-throttle diff all helped. Spending about 60-90 minutes of mindless level grinding, I managed to unlock most of the parts and I was able to at least make the car so that i could drive it relatively consistently and not wind up backwards in the barriers every 30 seconds. I managed to dial out most of the oscillation by adding a bit of Natural Inertia (NIN) and lowering the FEI to 80 (from 100) in the Fanatec Control Panel. To make matters worse, if you get just a touch over-eager with the throttle and have any amount of steering input applied, the rear tires throw up their hands in desperation, your grip disappears, and off you go into another spin. ![]() Not only does the Valkyrie have massive oscillation, but as soon as you feel the back start to step out, it becomes a major moment, you try to correct and then get a huge snap of oversteer in the opposite direction…usually sending you into an unrecoverable spin. I have a CSL DD, and generally every other car I’ve tried feels pretty good or at least manageable. Go back to Valkyrie and boom crazy oscillationĪgreed, the default tune on the Valkyrie is absolutely diabolical. So that was also a no.Ĭlearly something is wrong with that car or perhaps that is micking it’s true behavior? Reset my setting went to drive similarly capable cars #6 Acura, Intensa Emozione, Pininfarina Bastita (which has it’s own problem but no oscillation), Veyron SS, Cadillac V-Series, Ford GT 2017, Jesko, X-bow GT2, #2 Porsche 919, Saleem S7, Lambo Superveloce, Ginetta #6 (quite hard to drive but no oscillation), Ferrari FXX K, Corvette E-Ray, McLaren Senna, and newly acquired Pagani Huayra R. But that meant a loose in the center of wheel and the moment you just move slightly it came up and was now worsened by going thru the deadzone stopping and pushing harder once moving to other side. ![]() Only thing made a slight difference is 1 to inside steering deadzone while not touching at all in strait. Wheel is 1080, usually do 66% for normal car, but 50% or 33% for very fast one. ![]() Wheel Damping scale, Center Spring scale any where 0-200 resulted in no perceivable difference. If the issue occur with a few more cars maybe i tweak things up, but as it is because it only in one, it is easier to just tone it down, if possible, within that car tune.ĮDIT: Actually to try to finish Yas Marina without breaking my setup or get injured, I rewinded on the long strait and tried related settings increasing/decreasing 5 points at time. I am not touching my Driver settings which works with all my racing games and I am not touching the Wheel settings in FM anymore as it has worked with all other cars thus far for me.
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